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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.